Un Jour avec Ina Garten

Ina Garten, FoodNetwork chef and my idol hostess, bought an apartment in Paris around the time that she came out with her Parisian cookbook. Apparently she spent some time here throughout the year, and was even here in February! So I looked up some of her favorite places in Paris and followed a little Ina-inspired walking tour through Paris. (I was hoping she’d be wandering around Paris at the same time- but no such luck.)

I started on her street at the Sunday Organic Market at Metro Rennes (Boulevard Raspail between Chercher Midi and Rue de Rennes). She recommends visiting the pancake man and the American bakers for American treats.

I stopped and bought a slice of organic nut bread with whole figs. It was delicious! I also bought some handmade soaps for my boss, who only shops "bio".
Next, she says to stop by Polaine (8 rue Cherche-Midi), which is a famous boulangerie in Paris. It was closed because it was Sunday, but the neighborhood was so cute! I heard someone hosting a party through an open balcony window and I dreamed that it must be Ina’s apartment.

I visited her suggestions for gifts, dishware, and flowers.

Barthelemy (51 rue Grenelle)
Marianne Robic (39 rue de Babylone)
Muriel Grateau (37 rue de Beaune)

She also suggests going to Bon Marche (38 rue des Sevres). It’s the biggest home appliance store in Paris. I need to go back, because I hear that it’s incredible- think Williams and Sonoma + French style and Chef Central Sized. After walking for a while, I found a cute little private park and sat and read for a while in the sun. It was quite a lovely Sunday- Ina would approve.

Plat de souvenir

I would try and get off the metro a few stops from my apartment and walk myself home through the winding streets on the 14th Arrondisement. Some of the things I found along the way:

Rue de Guerre: A small street with restaurants and outdoor food stands. I shopped in a few boutiques, boulangeries, and a hot chocolate shop- the same concept as a tea shop except exclusively hot chocolate. I loved the pace and atmosphere in the street. It’s difficult to explain but every time of day that I would pass through on my way felt like the true Paris.

Cimitaire Montparnasse: I noticed this giant gated square while running one day and I made it my goal to find the entrance and sneak a peak inside. It ended up being a cemetery, much like Piere Lachaise however there were no tourists but tons of famous French graves. I only recognized Serge Gainsbourg from a movie that we had seen with class. He was a French singer, songwriter, actor, director and musical genius in the 1960s, 70s, and 80s. The French adore him. We watched a film about his life for class-- maybe it was the cultural difference between me and the French or the fact that I understand about 20% of the language in the movie, but I never understood their fascination with the man. He was not a hero nor a role model; maybe a genius that got thrown into a terrible life of fame, abandonment, drugs, and alcohol. But, like I said, the French adore him and the tributes on his grave show that he is truly loved, at his tucked away grave in Paris.

Life as a marketiere was exciting. I got to try new fruits, vegetables, and cheeses. I picked up some street lingo and learned the Parisian pace. I learned new neighborhoods and smelled some mouth-watering freshly baked breads and some eye-watering scaly fish--but my best market purchase was a plate. Plat? Yes, I bought a giant ceramic serving platter, hand crafted and painted by a wonderful market vendor just outside of Paris. I fell in love with French dishware at home with my mom’s gorgeous yellow and red hand-painted serving platters. They make the dinner table come alive and the food look beautiful, so it didn’t matter to me how I was supposed to carry a giant, breakable platter through the airport- I was bringing home my plate!